If you like food and wine you have definitely come to the right department. The Dordogne offers rich and varied cuisine of the highest standard. Regional specialities include foie gras, walnuts (used in Gateaux and Pain aux Noix), strawberries, truffles and of course a wide selection of wine from the nearby Bergerac vineyards as well as from Bordeaux and Cahors. Duck is a regular feature on menus (Confit or Magret de Canard) and the Perigord cuisine often favours the use of duck and goose fat over butter, giving dishes such as roast potatoes a particular, and delicious, taste.
Vineyards
Our favourites in the area include:
- Chateau Jaubertie, at Colombier, just west off the N21, south of Monbazillac.
- Chateau de la Borderie, just north of Monbazillac.
- Chateau Ladesvignes, at Pompot on the D17, running north towards Bergerac.
There are of course many other fine vineyards further west, towards Bordeaux.
For more information about wine and vineyards in the region visit www.pays-de-bergerac.com.
Eating Out
As would be expected, there are a wide selection of very good restaurants in the region, many providing excellent value for money. Below we have listed a variety of restaurants we have tried and enjoyed. Happy eating! To avoid disappointment, in season and at weekends, you are generally advised to phone and book restaurants in advance. All restaurants welcome kids and you can wear what you like (within the bounds of decency), even in the smart places.
Privilege du Perigord
Monpazier
Privilege du Perigord (0553.22.43.98)
A small restaurant on Rue Notre Dame, on the left as you come through the arch.
The restaurant is run by a woman artist & her chef husband. There is a pretty creeper-walled courtyard where you can dine outside. Basic regional cuisine and good value for money.
La Bastide (0553.22.60.59)
On Rue St Jacques, as you come through the right hand arch it is on your left hand side. Slightly smarter restaurant. A rather dark interior but generally good food.
Edward 1er
Hotel Edward 1er (0553.22.44.00)
The smartest hotel in Monpazier has started serving lunch and dinner for non-residents.
Lunch is a selection from twelve small dishes from the region and further afield. Dinner is a rather grander affair with a ‘Menu Gastronomique’ and reservations are only accepted on the day. Worth a visit.
Belves
Auberge De La Nauze (0553.28.44.81)
A very pleasant family run restaurant on the road below Belves, on the crossroads between the roads to Siorac & Domme.
Newly restored with pine ceilings and big windows looking out onto pleasant grounds with stream (and car-park). Good food and not too far to drive. Now a regular stop for us.
Domme
L’Esplanade (0553.28.31.41)
This is definitely a favorite. An excellent Michelin-rosetted hotel and restaurant in a terrific location on the edge of a cliff top village overlooking the Dordogne valley.
Best for lunch on a nice day. Ask for a table on the terrace and enjoy the fabulous view. Very good food in elegant but friendly surroundings. The village is well worth a browse, although a bit touristy.
Bergerac / Monbazillac
La Tour Des Vents (0553.58.30.10)
Situated by the Moulin de Malfourat near Monbazillac and overlooking Bergerac, this restaurant now vies with L’Esplanade at Domme as our favourite. Very good food from a lady chef. Her husband is the genial front of house.
Relais De La Diligence (0553.58.30.48)
On the road out of Bergerac towards Monbazillac, as you wind up the hill on the right hand side of the road with views back towards Bergerac. It provides a good value three course meal including steak and frites, with friendly and efficient service.
Issigeac
Chez Alain (0553.58.77.88)
Just outside the village on the road to Bergerac. Good food and very pleasant outside seating in the courtyard.
For more restaurants in the Monpazier area try www.pays-des-bastides.com.
If you want to go a little further afield Les Toques du Perigord may be worth a visit.